SOMETHING FOR THE LADIES...

One of the things I most enjoy about my job is the sheer breadth of subjects that I'm commissioned to write about. Each new assignment means my undertaking research, conducting interviews with the right people, visiting different places, and the process never deviates, whether it's a subject I'm famililar with, or something completely new. In many respects, it's the new ones that inspire me the most, because those are the assignments that confer new knowledge upon me, gifting me an awareness where previously there was ignorance. I find an angle or a hook to hang the story from and then immerse myself in someone else's world, soaking up as much data as I can. I make notes, record interviews, take pictures. Then it's a matter of  filtering out what's not relevant, so that I can write a feature that hopefully educates or informs the reader. When the copy is filed, the knowledge combines with what I experienced whilst undertaking the research, and I'm one step further along the learning curve. It's the best insight into life anybody could wish for.


A quick look through this blog's archives might suggest that I only write about aviation or the military, though. And whilst it's true that I've spent quite a bit of time with all three of our services over the past few years, it doesn't tell the whole story. For every trip I've had in an RAF fast jet, or ship I've sailed on with the Royal Navy, there is a raft of features that I've written on a whole world of subjects - from business, women's interest, technology and automotive to news, celebrity interviews and lads' mags, with everything in betwen. I'm a profligate writer, churning out countless stories each month on a range of subjects for two news agencies, but they rarely see the light of day on here because it's my higher profile assignments that take prominence.


I thought it high time I softened the feel of this blog with something a little more feminine and tactile than guns or military hardware, so for my female readers - and the men actually, come to think of it - I offer you this story about online retailer figleaves.com and the blooming success story that is the lingerie market in the U.K. And you thought business was boring?!


A changing demographic in Britain has seen professional women becoming an increasingly powerful economic market force and nothing underlines this better than the market for intimate apparel. In the UK, intimate apparel sales (the collective term for hosiery, corsetry and lingerie) have rocketed in recent years, climbing by some seven per cent in 2004 to over £2 billion as shoppers bought garments ranging from knickers and bras to thongs and stockings in record numbers. Retail sales for hosiery and lingerie stood at £624m and £552m respectively in 2004 with brassières alone accounting for 33.4%.



High Street retailers like Marks and Spencer used to be the de facto choice for underwear purchases, but for a generation raised on ‘Sex and the City’, tastes are becoming ever more adventurous, leading to a whole new market of designer-band luxury items, which shun scratchy lace in favour of sheerer, more comfortable fabrics. The lexicon for the internet generation is ‘anything goes’, a legacy of the rave culture of the eighties which saw underwear worn as outerwear.


A gradual blurring of the lines between work and home wardrobes by young women and a penchant for using sheer, diaphanous fabrics in outerwear by designers has seen sales of brassières and panties outstrip the growth of other lingerie items by a considerable margin. Whereas women once regarded underwear as a commodity and bought out of necessity, it is now regarded increasingly as a luxury indulgence or fashion accessory and it’s designer names like La Perla, Lejaby, Love Kylie and DKNY which are reaping the rewards, replacing the more familiar High St retailers’ labels on the garments in the discerning woman’s underwear drawer.


The development of new fabrics and the use of new materials in lingerie have provided an opportunity for companies to diversify their product ranges ever further and no company has been better placed to take advantage of this than online UK retailer figleaves.com. Figleaves was founded eight years ago by its current chairman Daniel Nabarro and survived the dot.com crash of 1999, which saw some high profile casualties including the one that started it all, Boo.com. Figleaves almost went the same way - they originally started out with the name 'Stuff for Women', but when current chief executive Michael Ross joined, he came up with the rebranding and used boo.com simply as a source of inspiration for the revised business model. The boo.com vision was that fashion brands are truly global - the 'open a copy of Vogue, and it will be the same all over the world' concept. But whereas Boo focused on outerwear, figleaves concentrated on underwear; it’s branded, light, and easily shippable, anywhere in the world. You can see the attraction - and so can the customers. 


Figleaves got lean and shaped up, offering  intimate apparel from its website in over 2,500 styles from over 170 designer brands. Today, the company offers online shoppers the widest range of lingerie, hosiery and corsetry available anywhere in the world offering more styles, sizes and brands than any other online or physical retailer. 80 per cent of the 400,000 customers are women in the 25-50 age range, spending an average of £50 per transaction.


Figleaves’ philosophy is a simple one - to provide a simple, one-stop shop for all intimate apparel needs, regardless of size, style or budget through a simple, easy to use web portal. Customers place orders online; these are checked against stock before being despatched from a purpose-built 27,000sq.ft warehouse for free global delivery. From its humble beginnings in 1998, the company has grown from a staff of four to its current complement of 70 and has seen turnover increase from £180,000, doubling year on year to an estimated £14m this year. The company is now nudging profitability as planned.



Growing at that rate is not easy for any business, be it offline or online and chief executive Michael Ross, doesn’t pretend that it is. He says it has been made possible by having a clear vision and sticking to targets. “We knew from the beginning that breakeven was going to be at around £15 million turnover, and we couldn’t have afforded to wait 10 years to get there,” he says. Perhaps just as notable though, is the fact that Figleaves.com has succeeded where so many of its peers have failed – by breaking America. Unlike Marks & Spencer, which came unstuck when it paid over the odds for luxury shirt maker Brooks Brothers, and Midland Bank, which lost over £1 billion on California’s Crocker Bank, Ross did not expand into the U.S until the company had already established a presence there.


“On the day that we launched in America it was already our second biggest market,” says Ross. “Most British companies fail in America because they start with high costs, such as setting up flagship sites in New York. But American women were ordering online from us and only realising that we were based in Britain when they received the underwear and saw it was posted from England.” Figleaves.com has since set up a separate American website and all the online marketing deals are negotiated by somebody who flies out once a month from England. The company now runs a concession within Amazon.com. “We did a joint launch with Amazon and Anna Kournikova for a new Shock Absorber bra,” says Ross. “Jeff Bezos, head of Amazon, had a tennis match with Anna Kournikova in New York and within a week we had orders worth $250,000.”


Having conquered America, Ross now has his sights set firmly on Europe, particularly, France. France has a huge lingerie market - even small French towns seem to have as many lingerie shops as bread shops - but Ross thinks there is still a niche for him. “The French lingerie market is worth about £3 billion a year,” he says. “We are looking to turn over £8m in four years’ time, mainly from expatriates or people who don’t like shopping.” The company already exports to 66 countries.


Traffic to the Figleaves website sees over 3m unique hits each month, and has seen over £2.5m of sales to customers who arrived via Google alone. A growing customer base that is rapidly approaching half a million, has taken Figleaves firmly into the Top 10 of UK internet retailers with the result that the company now boasts a host of prestigious awards from business and media, including the prestigious Online Retailer of the Year 2005 award from Retail Week.



Right, that's enough lingerie for now, let's talk TV. I'm loving the new (and final!) third series of No Angels, which airs on Tuesday evenings (er...like today) at 22:00 on Channel Four. I might be a little outside of the demographic for the audience, but I still love the storylines, the slick production, kicking soundtrack and the brilliantly cast characters. I've obviously got a soft spot for medical dramas, because I'm completely hooked on ABC's Grey's Anatomy, too. Oh, and whilst we're on the subject of TV, and medical comedy/drama, Channel 4's inspired sit-com/sketch show Green Wing  returns this Friday for its long-awaited second series.


The writers really broke the mould with Green Wing, a smart and original blend of sitcom and sketch show, with a hint of docu-soap, and a grim determination to drive the tired old genre of TV sitcom into fresh and dynamic new areas. Green Wing for the first time expanded the traditional sitcom format from half an hour to a full sixty minutes. In making this bold move, the show liberated its large team of writers from the Albatross of having to “move the plot forward” in every scene, and gave them enough screen time to create surreal “freestanding” comedy moments that were there for one reason only – to be funny. And my God, they are! If you didn't catch this first time round (and Ch4 will be broadcasting the first series each night until Friday for those of you who didn't) don't miss this. And for my readers in the U.S - unlucky!


Actually, that will include me from next week. With the builders moving into our house from Monday for the next couple of months so that the subsidence can be dealt with, I'm off to my parents' house in warm and sunny Louisiana for two weeks whilst they get the dirty and heavy work sorted out. Hopefully, by the time I get back, we should have a new floor downstairs, and it'll just be a case of working around the painters and decorators who will have to make good every room on the ground floor (including my office, natch). The cats are off to a cat hotel whilst the messy work is going on, so I'll have the delightful task of driving them there on Monday and making myself scarce until my flight leaves a week tomorrow. Still, I have an assignment to undetake before then, plenty of writing to keep me occupied and a host of things to do before I go so I'm expecting the time to fly by.

28.3.06 13:01
 


To date 25 Comment(s)     TrackBack-URL


pixeldiva / Website (28.3.06 14:00)
It's funny that you mention figleaves.com, because for all the online shopping I've done, I've never bought any kind of lingerie online.
Maybe I'm old fashioned - but nobody else's word will do when it comes to the fabric that's going to be surrounding my delicate parts - I have to feel it for myself, and I'm really fussy about it.
Yes, I know I could send it back, but it's far too much hassle, and anyway, it takes the fun out of shopping for the items (either by yourself or with company) themselves.
But enough nattering about knickers and babbling about bras... glad to see you've been snared by Grey's Anatomy too - it's really excellent.
On the subject of excellent - have you paid any attention to the remake of Battlestar Galactica (now in it's second season and on Sky One)...?


(28.3.06 14:31)
PixelDiva: I guess part of what so inspired me about figleaves is its business model; it's one of those ideas that you wish you'd thought of first, because it's beautiful in its simplicity.

Remember everyone’s favourite dotcom joke, Boo.com? Originally, figleaves was called 'stuff for women' and it followed a similar format. But when Ross joined as Cheif Exec in 1999, he came up with the rebranding and used boo.com simply as a source of inspiration for the revised business model.

As he said, "Boo.com did a lot of things wrong but their vision was that fashion brands are truly global. If you open a copy of Vogue, it will be the same all over the world. While they are focused on outerwear, we’re focused on underwear.”

Focusing on lingerie was brilliantly simple: it’s branded, light, and easily shippable. You can see the attraction.

I guess if women discover a range that they particulalry like (the company, although it caters for men, has an overwhelmingly female customer base) it would make sense to buy from figleaves. But my understanding of lingerie is that it's also an indulgence purchase for a lot of women, in the same way that gadgets are for guys. Induglgence purchases are generally about making yourself feel good. And shopping the offline way - browsing, picking up, trying on, interracting - it's a tactile experience, so I guess you miss out on that buying through figleaves.

That said though, it clearly works for some - 500,000 customers and almost expnonential business growth year on year must indicate something. Clearly, a lot of women like the convenience

Grey's Anatomy is brilliant; only another few episodes to go in Season 2,and then I'm really stuffed. Maybe I'll have to look to Battlestar Galactica to take it's place as I've yet to watch an episode and everyone says it's brilliant. Am I really missing something good there?


pixeldiva / Website (28.3.06 15:07)
Yeah, I'm enough of an anorak that I read the book written in the aftermath of the boo.com crash, explaining what went wrong and why they did what they did. Fascinating reading if you like that sort of thing.
Don't get me wrong, I think the figleaves idea is genius, but it's just one area of e-commerce that doesn't work (or at least, hasn't to date) for me. I suppose if there was something that I already had and I knew what size and shade I wanted and they had it and were able to get it to me quickly enough to save me going and getting it myself then I might indulge, but along with being fussy, it also seems like I'm fickle and want to reserve the right to impulse buy as the mood strikes
Battlestar Galactica is absolutely excellent. Season 1 was head and shoulders above most sci fi on TV, and Season 2, well, even the not so good episodes are better than most of everything else that's on TV - sci fi or not. The writing, acting, setting - everything is just beautifully done by a team that obviously cares about the quality of their work and the subject matter... even better, Amazon has Season 1 in it's entirety for a really reasonable price, so no excuse not to get started on it


(28.3.06 16:12)
PixelDiva: Sounds like my sort of book, actually. I think I'll try and get hold of a copy.

I think the 'impulse buy' thing is the one area where the internet fails. Often, I'll think of something I want when I'm at home and I know I won't be able to get it locally. So I then have the debate, "Do I buy it online and have it delivered in the next couple of days, or wait until I'm in London at the end of the week?"
Often, with big purchases, I'll choose the latter, simply because I want to indulge and enjoy the buying experience. It's like when I bought my iPod Video last year. I could have got it online, straight away, but I wanted the whole thing of going to the Apple Shop, browsing, looking, playing, touching. And nothing beats the feeling of walking to the counter, asking for what you want and handing your cash over in exchange for what you want.

I guess online purchasing has its own thrill, and it's nice enough when the courier delivers a package you've been waiting for. But it's not the same. And I guess there's an argument that says it's a pretty sorry state of affairs when nearly half a million women think of lingerie as 'just another purchase', like it's a chore or something. I mean, not all underwear is born equal, is it?

And seeing as BG Season One sounds so good, I guess I'm going to have to check it out (although I'm not sure what you mean by the words 'buy' and 'Amazon' where TV series are concerned - are you suggesting I actually pay for them?!)

It has to be better than the original BG (special effects were good for the time - about on a par with Space 1999 IIRC!) Any other series I should be aware of?


Megan / Website (28.3.06 17:25)
I have to side with PixelDiva here. Lingere is a difficult purchase; you really have to feel, try on and see this stuff in person to make a decision.
That being said, once you're stuck on a certain brand/style, buying it over the Internet doesn't sound like a bad idea.


(28.3.06 18:25)
Funnily enough I've got two underwear sites listed on my blog page under my 'Favourite Sites' list. I've called them 'Yummy undies'. Figleaves should be on there too because it's definitely a favourite of mine.
I could quite happily spend an absolute fortune on underwear, if I had a fortune to spend that is. Love the stuff, and I often use Figleaves.com because it has such a huge range available, and also because delivery and returns are free (if I remember rightly?!). I think I've ordered bikinis from the site too as it does swimwear. All round a very good website.

And I hope you have a good time in Louisiana. How often do you get to see your parents?


(28.3.06 19:29)
Megan: I'm not disagreeing; in fact, I'm more inclined to agree with you both, as I've pointed out in my comments.

I guess what I don't get is why so many women are seemingly happy to buy it online. I can't believe that they're all buying things that they're familiar with, so there have to be a sizeable number of 'first time' buys there. Also, figleaves quote a higher than average number of repeat customers, so they're clearly satisfied with something.

The company was founded on a 'no questions asked' return and refund guarantee, so people obviously feel safe with purchasing an unknown or untried brand or size.

Figleaves has something up it's sleeve though, which should see customer numbers increase even further once it's launched. It's being hailed as 'the Dyson of bra fitting' and should be available within a year.
Called 'The T-Bra', it's the brainchild of company chairman Daniel Nabarro. It's a new measuring system which has been in development for four years and will allow women to create a 'prescription' for their own bra, accurately and simply at home. At present, estimates suggest that a minimum of 70 per cent of British women are wearing the wrong size bra - some research estimates the numbers to be over 90 per cent.

Using the system, women will be able to take their own measurements using a new underbust measuring device and a selection of specially engineered 'cups'. These cups are so precise they will enable women to pinpoint their bra size to within half a cup. Using the T-Bra system to pinpoint her exact dimensions, the customer will then enter them on the website. A search and match facility will automatically select a bra from 200 brands carried in the range. If she is a non-standard 35in around the ribs and it's problematic to know whether to buy a 34in or a 36in size, this service will be able to recommend the appropriate size. It will take into account variations in fit between different brands.

Further details are here if you're interested.


(28.3.06 19:33)
WelshChick: Ah, the voice of dissent! Both Megan and PixelDiva say in their comments that they prefer to buy underwear the conventional way. You being one of the 500,000 Figleaves customers that I've talked about, I'd love to hear your views - does the fact that they have such an extensive range outweigh the 'reduced pleasure' of being able to feel, touch, try as you would in a retail store (and you're right, btw, no questions asked return and refund policy has been in operation since day one).

Get to see my parents a fair bit. This will be by fourth time out there in a year. x


(28.3.06 19:55)
Ah well, I like buying underwear in the 'conventional way' too. But in the stores where I sometimes shop for smalls you're usually only allowed to take a certain number of items (I'm talking bras now) into the changing rooms with you, and then if you want to try some more on you've either got to yell for an assistant while you hide behind the curtain, which is a tad embarrassing, or you have to pull on all your clothes and find other sizes and styles to try on before returning to the changing rooms again.

With Figleaves, I tend to order an absolute load of stuff (sometimes the same item but in a couple of different sizes - I do this because my size varies according to the bra so I can never be sure that they'll fit), and can then try them all on in the comfort of my own home.

It also helps that I live just a minute away from our local post office so just have to nip over there if I want to return something.


(28.3.06 21:29)
Continuing the Medical TV appreciation, I'm hoping More4 repeat runs St. Elsewhere after Hill Street Blues gets to the end of its seventh season. If not, I can always wait till the DVD comes out.
Then there's House; great show - but is it me or have the women had appointments with stylists in the downtime, and how long before Stephen Fry guest stars? Leave it till the final season I think which hopefully won't be for a while.


(29.3.06 10:31)
welshChick: Sounds like the stuff of nightmares, buying underwear in a shop. I guess I was looking at things from bloke perspective - i.e., you know what size boxer shorts you wear, so it's into Next/M&S/Debenhams/Whatever, pick up required size and colour, take to till. Sounds like you've got the ideal compromise with Figleaves, especially given the close proximity of the post office.

I guess it's always amazed me too, that so many women don't wear the correct sized bra. For something so vital and important, and that you have to wear all day, everyday...why? It must be desperately uncomfortable?

I thought they had assistants from the bra companies in a lot of department stores, who would measure you, because as far as I remember, it's always been an issue. At least, it must have been for some time, seeing as I've known about it for years and I'm a bloke!



(29.3.06 10:33)
Nutkin: Two series that have completely passed me by, sadly. Still, gives me something else to look at once No Angels and Grey's Anatomy come to the end of their runs, so cheers!


pixeldiva / Website (29.3.06 12:53)
Other series that are really good... hmm... West Wing and Firefly. Can lend you some West Wing DVDs if you want to give it a go. Definitely worth watching from the beginning. Firefly is Joss Whedon doing an interesting take on the whole space thing - with his trademark excellent writing and characterisation. Also, as Nutkin says - House is also excellent.
On the subject of overtheshoulder boulder holders - that T-Bra looks like an interesting idea. Up until a couple of years ago, I was convined I had a broad back and average sized boobs. Then I went to Bravissimo and had myself measured properly. Turns out I was wearing a bra that was four sizes wrong in both band size (too big) and cup size (too small). The downside now being that the number of places I can shop is dramatically reduced, on account of most places not stocking bras in "more than a handful" sizes. The upside is that I now have much less backache and don't feel like my boobs are trying to escape in fourteen different directions every time I move. Swings and roundabouts I guess.
If I wasn't able to get that service in a shop, then the T-Bra thing would be a good option.


(29.3.06 13:17)
PixelDiva: West Wing is one that's always interested me; seems to be just my thing, but for some reason it passed me by. Probably a good time to get into it, as it has a finite end to it now they've annouced it's to be no more. I saw a DVD box set in Virgin last time I was in there - seemed like Seasons 1-6, complete? That sound right? However, I can't believe anybody but an utter fan with more money than sense would pay the £200 asking price. Nicely packaged, though.

On another note, I guess that figleaves' biggest selling point is the fact that, unlike conventional retailers, they're not restricted in stock terms to carrying just a handful of sizes. In short, if the manufacturer makes it, they carry it and stock it. The only downside to that is discounting.

Conventional fashion retailers reduce prices on stock to shift it and make way for the new season's designs. They're limited by space, so if a particular bra isn't selling, they discount the item, sell it, and make the money up by having an item in its place that will sell. Figleaves on the other hand have all the space they need. So if a bra takes six months to at full price instead of three months at half price, they're better off - and able to - wait the six months. Good for them, not so good for the consumer.

Still, everything's about compromise somewhere, isn't it?


(29.3.06 19:37)
Have you ever been in an Agent Provocateur store? Now that's a wonderful shopping for underwear experience that's second to none. I went to the one in Birmingham, in Selfridges. It was like being some sort of Victorian brothel or boudoir, and the changing rooms had enormous heavy red curtains. Plus, the assistants were so friendly and helpful and polite which makes a change.

Yes, I've heard that lots of women wear the wrong bra size. I guess maybe women forget why they wear a bra in the first place? Or maybe we forget that when we lose a bit of weight, or gain a little, etc. etc. bra sizes can change. Plus, some styles of bra are only suitable for women with smaller chests, styles which those who are a little more blessed in that area should steer clear of

I'll be honest, I've never actually been measured properly (the embarrassment thing again), so haven't a clue whether I'm wearing the correct size. I have a vague idea about what a well-fitting bra should feel and look like, but as far as I'm concerned, if it looks good, feels comfy and I'm not bulging out of it then it'll do.


(29.3.06 20:39)
Figleaves is absolutely fantastic..the choice is amazing..sorry i kinda skimmed over the last of it past sreading 'figleaves'..apologies, i have a short attention span and am your bubblegum commentator!


(29.3.06 21:21)
Nice, a post for the ladies, with pics for the chaps!
And good to see you back safe and sound sir!


(29.3.06 22:41)
WelshChick: Never been to an Agent Provocateur store sadly, which would appear to be my (or my wife's -depending how you look at it ;-)) loss. Love their branding and advertising, and I think it's a great business model, but for some reason, never been near one of their retail outlets. I have been to Victoria's Secret in the U.S though, which probably runs a close second. From a woman's perspective, the way you desrcibe it, it must be like bra-buying heaven!

It's no surprise that so many women wear the wrong bra size when you look at the reasons that motivated Daniel Nabarro to come up with the T-Bra measuring system. For starters, as in most areas of fashion, the manufacturers size differently, so one brand’s 34DD might be another brand’s 34E. Also, bras from outside the UK often have completely different sizing schemes. Finally, in–store fitting is costly, often results in queuing and, as you say yourself, is embarrassing for some women - which has to be good news for both Figleaves, and Agent Provocateur!

I read somewhere that if a woman gets home from work at the end of a day, and thinks about taking off her bra before she takes off her shoes, it's a pretty good indicator that she's wearing the wrong size. That said, your description - "...if it looks good, feels comfy and I'm not bulging out of it then it'll do" says if far more eloquently and succinctly! x


(29.3.06 22:42)
Amy: No worries - it's nice of you to stop by and comment! You're welcome here anytime, bubblegum comments or not!


(29.3.06 22:48)
Pete: You know me fella - if I can cover both bases, why not?! I seem to remember that my blog entry British Women Have the Biggest Breasts in Europe> attracted a similar response, so maybe there's a market out there for a blog devoted to the subject!

Thanks for the welcome back; must admit, it's nice to be back. And nice to see you popping by still.


(29.3.06 23:06)
Yes, I remember it well. I mean, not that I have a mind dedicated to these things or anything...

Have you got a lot coming up this spring?


(30.3.06 12:34)
Pete: Yeah, it's looking pretty busy. Get back from the U.S, and I'll have builders in the house until mid-May at the earliest. Got a car review to undertake (BMW's brilliant 535d M Sport Saloon) which will take me to the South of France.

When I get back from there, there's the prospect of a trip to the Middle East (still working out the logistics of that one) and a visit to Germany with the Royal Milirary Police. Got a couple of assignments with the RAF coming up too, and the usual litany of news articles for the two news agencies that I write for each month. Not too stressful, but it ain't gonna be a quite time, that's for sure!


(30.3.06 13:22)
South of france to review a Sports BMW? Two seconds while I beat the green-eyed monster down!

Sounds like you've got plenty to keep you going, but plenty of fun to be had while doing it, which is cool. Look forward to some pics from the south of france!


(30.3.06 14:27)
Pete: Cheers matey; should be spoiled for choice picture wise on a gig like this. Perfect mix of work and play, and what I love best is not knowing what the journey holds. Perfect.


Travlor / Website (2.8.07 19:16)
Escuze my English! But nice travel
Hope to see you one days,
++Travlor



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