The picture above was taken on my last excursion into the Red Zone in company with the British Army. SOP here is for armed soldiers travelling in civillian vehicles to have their weapons locked and loaded and sticking out of the window ready for any potential threat - and as we've seen in the past 48 hours, threats here are both constant and widespread. The demonstrations and violence occasioned by supporters of radical Shia cleric Moqtada Sadr have seen more than 50 people killed in two days of protests and led to yesterday's attack by some of the US Army's Apache helicopter gunships on Sadr City, a slum in Baghdad's eastern suburbs. Given that all the trouble hitherto has been with the minority Sunni muslims who had been loyal to Saddam, we're now facing the proscpect of a battle on two fronts. For the first time yesterday, we were warned of potential trouble within the Green Zone and as I was walking along the main drag early yesterday evening, I had a close call with a suspect in a vehicle who drove past my companion and me several times, acting very suspiciously. Fortunately, a US Army Humvee came to our aid and the guy disappeared, but it brought home just how volatile this place is at the moment. The lockdown continues, resulting in all my meetings for today being cancelled, and last night was the worst since I arrived for gun battles, rockets and mortar attacks. Humvees in their many guises are a regular sight within the Green Zone, whether patrolling, parked up or engaged in some activity or other. During daylight, it's awash with soldiers but come night time, it's a little less safe and current advice is for us to stay off the streets. Oh well, back to base early tonight again - at least I'll be able to see the Arsenal v Chelsea game though. See what I mean about the Humvees - it's hell trying to find a parking space streetside! Remember the news footage at the start of the 'Shock and Awe' bombing campaign? Those night time camera views across the Tigris from the roof of the Palestine Hotel to the precision bombs which fell from aircraft unseen to those buildings at the centre of Saddam's empire? That's what now constitiutes the green zone and most of those buildings which survived the bombing have been taken over by the occupying forces or CPA. It still seems strange to remember that we're not in a State at present but in what is officialy an 'Occupied Territory'. In practice, this means no stamp in one's passport on arrival as the British Military controls Basra Airport, and no laws other than those passed by the occupying powers - at least until we hand sovereignty back to the Iraqi people on June 30th. This is an image I shot last week whilst driving around the Red Zone enroute to an assignment. It's in the south-west fringe of Baghdad and shows two young women dressed in traditional chador and the not so traditional high heels - another facet of a progressive culture without the restrictive edicts of life under Saddam. This image shows a suburb just west of the Green Zone, a mix of contemporary and tradtional houses juxtaposed with areas of open space where other homes once stood. I shot this pictuire from the Blackhawk helicopter which flew me to the Iranian border last week. The US Amry guys work a punishing schedule on tour here and life consists of either eating, sleeping, patrolling or mounting guard. Patrols are long and often result in contacts - gun battles with local insurgents who cruise the capital looking for US Army patrols to engage. Rest breaks are an opportunity for weary soliders to catch a few minutes of sleep before mounting another patrol. Il a l-liqa, In sh'Allah
STREET LIFE
6.4.04 14:33
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(6.4.04 16:32) Great stuff again! I am States-side and curious as to what your perception is regarding the feelings of the Iraqi's and their sympathies to Sadr versus the Coalition troops. Thanks! |
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(6.4.04 18:28) As the tension mounts your wife must be sooooo glad you will soon be on yor way home! |
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(7.4.04 07:30) ponnyj: There is an unshakeable feeling here that we are on the edge of a precipice and sliding ever deeper into a chasm. Whilst Sadr does not represent anything like the majority of Shiite muslims - a figure of no more than 10-15% - what's of most concern is the fact that this time last year, the very people who are now allied to him were those who were most vocal in their support for us. Sadr city, the scene of some of the most fierce battles in the past 48 hours was one of the areas to benefit most from Saddam's fall. Under Saddam's rule, the Sunni minority benefited most and occupied most of the key positions within his regime. The Shia majority on the other hand were persecuted and killed in their thousands. When coalition forces rolled into Iraq, the shias welcomed them with open arms, but recent weeks have brought this nee threat from a section of the community never previously considered hostile. The concern is that support for Sadr could spread more widely amonst moderate shias and leave the coalition fighting a rearguard defence on two fronts - aganst both the Sunnis, and the Shias - just when they were planning to withdraw troops and hand over power. Talking to ordinary Iraqis, the overwhelming majority want nothing more than a return to normality - to get on with their lives, drive their cars, go to work. Yet over a year on from Saddam's fall, many see themselves as worse off - unemployment, instability and security concerns are the factors most often cited. With the handover of sovereignty just three months away, it is anyone's guess what happens now. Hjordan: Have to say, I have mixed feelings about my impending return and that whilst my wife and I are looking forward to being reunited, professionally, I can't help feeling that I'll be missing out on a story which is just about to break. |
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(7.4.04 14:24) I've just come across your blog, thanks to Markpat, and I am really amazed. Thanks for sharing all these things with us. MJ |
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(7.4.04 15:14) I really, REALLY think that a big story is going to come out of Iraq very soon with the uprisings and unrest starting to become common-place. It would be such a shame if you missed it all,( and of course, a shame to us because we wouldn't have anyone on the inside ). I love the photograph of the girls walking down the street with their high heels on - One step further to modernisation.  )
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(7.4.04 15:56) MJinBaires: Thanks for taking the time to read it. Markpat: I very much doubt that this will be the last time I'm sent here - with the run up to June 30th and the increase in activity by insurgents and coalition forces, I suspect that this is one place which will remain at the forefront of the news reports. |
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(7.4.04 17:05) I heard about those uprisings last night on the news, and thought of you - Happy you're OK... |
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(7.4.04 18:24) Harmony: Thank you hon, that's very kind. |
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(7.4.04 21:33) Can see your side of it & not wanting to miss the big story!!! Do you have the choice of going back when you want or do you have to wait for someone to send you? |
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(7.4.04 22:04) hjordan: I'm dependent upon being sent back here but I have to say, on the evidence of what has happened today, I won't be rushing! As I write this, I can hear a US Marines Cobra Helo firing above us onto what I can only assume is the mortar position which has been hassling us for the past ten minutes. Everything points towards something big happening over the next few days - and given that I don't have a weapon, I'd rather be out of harm's way than in the thick of it, thanks! |
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(7.4.04 23:32) Just stumbled onto your blog.It's great to get more personal view of whats going on. Really great images. Thanks 
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(8.4.04 03:14) ah man, thats just gotta be hell over there. i hope they take care of the few people who are gettin in the way of peace soon. thanx for the great pics and first hand account of the action. |
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(8.4.04 05:17) When you talk about something big happening in the next few days, what are you implying? From the looks of it, the "something big" seems to be unfolding now. I would hate to see what you are implying. |
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(8.4.04 06:33) Kitti: Thank you for the compliment, and taking time to read my blog. Subspace: More than welome - and thanks for the kind words about the pix. ponnyj: It's difficult to get an overview from here on how news of what's happening is being reported in the international media so I can only speak from my own perspective. All indications are that things are stepping up a gear all round - Al Kut, Nasiryah, Fallujah all spring to mind. Coupled with today's anniversary of the 'martyrdom' of Sadr's father, and several other important dates in the muslim calender, the next 48 hours are going to be very tense. |
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Oink (6.6.06 13:56) From what I've read, Iraq was a better place for women under Saddam - before Islamic extremism rose to the fore. |
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